Clients want doors that latch securely, close smoothly without lifting or dropping on the latch, and seal tightly against air infiltration around the full perimeter.
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What clients expect and what professionals need to know
Door repair covers sticking and binding adjustments (planing, hinge shimming, or jamb correction), deadbolt and latch strike plate reinforcement, door bottom sweep replacement, weatherstripping replacement around the full perimeter, hinge replacement and tightening of stripped screw holes (using longer structural screws or golf tee/epoxy repairs), and frame split repair using structural wood glue and clamps. Door bottom sweeps are replaced by removing the door (for mortised automatic door bottoms) or sliding in a new sweep in the existing housing.
Clients want doors that latch securely, close smoothly without lifting or dropping on the latch, and seal tightly against air infiltration around the full perimeter.
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Common questions from clients looking for Door Repair services
The latch bolt is not aligning with the strike plate hole; check if the strike plate needs to be moved up or down by watching where the latch hits the plate. A file can enlarge the strike plate opening slightly; significant misalignment requires moving the strike plate.
A door that swings open is hung in an out-of-plumb opening — bend the middle hinge knuckle slightly toward the door stop to add resistance. A door that swings closed has a hinge off-plumb the other way; a door that pops open needs the strike plate adjusted.
Dried lubricant on the hinge pins; apply a small amount of petroleum jelly, WD-40, or 3-in-1 oil directly to the hinge pins — remove the pin, lubricate, and reinstall. Stainless or sealed hinges don't creak and are worth the upgrade on heavily-used doors.
First check whether the top hinge has pulled loose (tighten or replace screws with 3-inch structural screws); if the jamb is plumb but the door drags, the door has swollen from humidity or the floor has risen — plane the bottom edge with a hand plane or belt sander.
The standard door strike plate is the weakest point; replace with a heavy-gauge steel door reinforcement plate (Door Armor, StrikeMaster II) with 3-inch screws into the framing stud behind the jamb — this increases kick-in resistance by 10x over a standard strike plate.
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