Clients restoring heirloom pieces want the new finish to closely match the original character and patina, not look like a shiny new piece — a skilled finisher can replicate aging and toning effects.
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What clients expect and what professionals need to know
Furniture refinishing strips old finish using chemical strippers (Citristrip, Strypeeze) or heat guns and scrapers, sands through progressive grits (80, 120, 180, 220) to remove all finish and surface defects, repairs veneer chips and loose joints with hide glue or carpenter's glue, and applies a new finish matching the owner's preference — oil-based polyurethane for maximum durability, lacquer for fast production (spray-applied in multiple coats), or hand-rubbed Danish oil for a natural penetrating finish. Color matching stain to original or new color is done by blending oil-based stains on sample boards before applying to the piece.
Clients restoring heirloom pieces want the new finish to closely match the original character and patina, not look like a shiny new piece — a skilled finisher can replicate aging and toning effects.
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Common questions from clients looking for Furniture Refinishing services
Solid wood furniture refinishes beautifully; veneered furniture requires more care — sanding through the veneer layer destroys the surface; fiberboard and particleboard furniture (most IKEA) cannot be traditionally refinished; paint is an option for any surface.
Refinishing strips the piece to bare wood, stains (optional), and applies a clear topcoat to show the wood grain; repainting applies opaque paint over the existing surface (with prep) for a completely new color — repainting is faster and less expensive but conceals the wood grain.
Catalyzed lacquer (CV) provides exceptional durability and heat/chemical resistance for dining tables in professional refinishing shops; oil-based polyurethane is the next best for DIY application; water-based polyurethane is easier to apply but less durable than oil-based.
Remove the joint pieces (a rubber mallet and disassembly wedge), clean all old glue from both surfaces with a chisel and sandpaper, apply fresh hide glue or PVA to both surfaces, reassemble, and clamp for 24 hours — never force loose joints without removing old glue first.
A "scuff and recoat" (lightly sanding and applying a compatible topcoat over existing finish) is possible when the existing finish is intact and compatible; stripping is required when the old finish is failing, cracking, or incompatible with the new finish system.
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